Choosing A Puppy - Why Buy From A Good Breeder

Choosing A Puppy

Many breeders will have "waiting lists", for their puppies, especially for litters of popular parents or rare breeds.

Often breeders will have been observing their puppies during their development, & obviously know them better than potential owners, they will often make the decisions regarding which puppy goes to which home based on these observations & the information you have provided to them.  Therefore, it is unlikely that you would be able to “pick” your own puppy, unless there is more than one that fits your individual needs.  Contrary to popular belief, there is much more to picking a puppy than choosing the first one that comes to you!

However, if you should be in a position to be able to choose, you need to consider closely what type of personality you are looking for in your puppy.  This is especially important if your plans for your dog go beyond being an "ordinary family dog", but also important when choosing a family dog.  If you feel unqualified to make the right choice, bring someone experienced along or ask the breeder for help.  The breeder, who has seen the litter develop, should be able to pick out a suitable puppy for you.

Many people believe that they should pick the "first puppy that comes to them".  In our opinion this is an outdated approach which stems from the days when puppies were reared in outdoor kennels (where access to "strangers" and general household noises were uncommon).  All cocker puppies should be confident and "come to meet" you!  It is true to say that some may be more reticent (for many valid reasons i.e. has just woken up or is just about to go to sleep) but generally speaking, well-socialised pups are only too pleased to meet new people!

It is often the case that the boldest pups will be the first to come to greet you.  It does not mean the ones who are slower to approach are shy or that there is something amiss.  Every pup in a litter has a separate and distinct personality.  The bolder pups are likely to grow up to be more assertive dogs and the more reticent pups are likely to be calmer and more thoughtful.  Depending on your own personality and lifestyle, a bold pup may suit or indeed you may find it easier to live with a dog who is less assertive!

Generally speaking, the puppy should be interested in people, seem safe & healthy, not react with fear or anxiety when hearing relatively common sounds, calm down quickly if frightened, seem awake, & be interested in what goes on around him/her.  Notice how the puppy reacts when handled, whether with fear, or acceptance.  Please note that depending on the time of your visit, the puppies may all seem quiet, they could well have just finished playing & are ready for their nap, on other occasions the puppies may be very lively, in this instance it's probable that they have just woken up from their nap & are ready for "action".  Do consider all these things when viewing puppies as it's quite easy to make a wrong decision based on first impressions.

Watch the pup play with his littermates.  How does he deal with being taken away from his littermates?  Does he seem tough, anxious or calm?  All puppies are individuals, some will be very forward & will rush head long to explore each new event or person, others will be more reticent & will prefer to weigh up the situation before going to explore.  Some puppies will be very laid back & will not go & explore but be happy to watch what's going on from where they are!  All of these traits are quite normal & you needn't feel that the quiet pup is in any way inferior to the one that rushes over to greet you!

By noticing these things, you get an impression of what sort of personality you are dealing with & it will help you make the right choice.

When it is time to pick up the puppy, check the same things over again & especially that the pup seems healthy.  Clear eyes, normal motions, shiny fur, & not too thin or obese are signs that the puppy is in good health.

Before the puppy leaves home, a good breeder will have cared for a puppy well, socialised & loved him/her.  Puppies do not go their new homes as trained, well-mannered finished dogs! It is up to you to complete the job the breeder has started.  You are responsible for the further development of the puppy’s personality, through structured discipline, training, guidance, patience & love.

Dog or Bitch?

Well when choosing a puppy, your first question to ask yourself is dog or bitch? 

Before we go into the differences, we need to look at the most important point – have you chosen a good breeder?  A good, knowledgeable breeder will have a good idea about the puppy’s characters & may well not give you a choice of pup.  There is nothing at all wrong in this provided you have been honest with the breeder about your circumstances & what you want to do with your pup.  A breeder would give a calmer natured pup for instance to a first time owner, to older buyers or if they had young children, one with show potential to someone who wants to show & a lively pup to someone who enjoys outdoor pursuits & wants the puppy to accompany them etc.  You have to sit down, have a good think about what you want from your dog & a good breeder will help you with the choice of a suitable pup.

If you already have a dog, the choice is easier for you – your Cocker should probably be the opposite sex to the one you have.  Although you can have two or more of the same sex, this can lead to squabbles if the personalities clash.  Generally speaking, you should aim to (regardless of gender) match a placid, easygoing dog with a more lively & dominant dog & visa versa.  Two dogs with similar personalities have the potential to clash.

Males tend to be a little more pragmatic (unless their natures are the same & you can have constant challenges), bitches tend to hold grudges & once you have two bitches fighting, it’s very difficult to resolve.

If you want to introduce a dog of the same sex, it’s advisable to introduce a puppy rather than an adult as all dogs normally take to puppies.  The other key element is to have a good age gap between dogs of the same sex – if you have two dogs or two bitches of similar ages & personalities; you have a greater chance of some squabbling which could lead to fights breaking out.  However, the most important element is character, if you are introducing adults; don’t put two dominant dogs together.  Once again,  a good breeder will help you select a puppy of a suitable nature, where everything being equal, the match of puppy to existing dog should be favourable.

Bitches tend to have a stronger pack drive in our experience.  Pack drive is the definition of the dog’s ability to interact with the pack & the desire to be part of that group.  Pack drive is important in training & bitches tend to have the edge here.

The bitch tends not to “wander” as much off the lead as the dogs – if you have a dog & a bitch, you will notice that the dog scampers off all over the place where the bitch tends to stick with you more (although this is not a hard & fast rule!).

Bitches have sharpness & the craftiness element we think!  They are much more subtle in the way they do things than the males.  They can weigh up situations & pull them to their advantage without you even knowing about it!  When owning a dog & bitch the bitch is usually the boss (very few exceptions to this rule).  In dog/wolf packs, although the pack is run by an alpha pair (male & female) the male is there more for “show” due to his larger stature. In the event of threats or problems, it’s the bitch that does the thinking & resolving!  This is important to remember when choosing between them.

Dogs tend to have a more outwardly superior nature of “look at me, I’m just great” & he will push his behaviour to show this (bitches tend not to because they are of the opinion, “look I know I’m great & I don’t have to prove it”). 

Dogs tend to be more headstrong & can be a little more difficult to train than the bitches (though again this is not a 100% rule)

Male & Female Traits:

Clearly, another difference between the sexes are sexual characteristics.  Females will (unless neutered) have regular seasons.  The frequency of these varies from breed to breed, however in Cocker Spaniels we have found that parti-coloured (all colours save for solid colours) tend to have seasons spaced approximately 9 - 11 months apart.  This effectively means they are in season only once a year.  Seasons tend to be more regular in the solid colour cockers and the frequency is more likely to be every 6 - 9 months apart.  Generally speaking a season lasts for around 21 days, the middle days of the season are when the bitch is likely to be at her most fertile (although this is not a hard & fast rule, some will be fertile much earlier or perhaps later) and would willingly entertain a male during this time.

During a bitch’s season she will loose some blood stained discharge, the quantity of this varies from bitch to bitch, with our own girls we find the discharge is quite light and certainly doesn't pose a problem in terms of keeping the house/furniture clean.  At some stage during the season (approx. 8 - 15 days after the onset) the bitch will be fertile and if mated (deliberately or accidentally) she is likely to conceive a litter of pups.  It is advisable, that if you are exercising your bitch away from home whilst she's in season, that you keep her on a lead at all times to ensure that she doesn't encounter a male dog on her travels!

Un-neutered males are interested in bitches in season all year round.  With our own males we haven't found this to be a problem, none of our males has every escaped our garden in search of bitches in season in the locality,  neither have they made a nuisance of themselves in any other respect.

Scent Marking:

Most dogs and some bitches will engage in scent marking (passing frequent small quantities of urine at designated spots) at some stages in their lives.  This process is certainly more noticeable and annoying with males than it is with females.

When you walk your male dog, aim to go from A - B without stopping, don't allow him to sniff every lamp post you pass, if he stops to sniff he will want to leave his mark!  Once you arrive at your destination he can, have a sniff around and pass urine if he needs to.  If you allow him to stop, sniff, and leave his mark every few feet he will learn that it's OK to scent mark when he chooses.

If you follow the advice above you should find that you don't have a male who feels the need to lift his leg on everything he sees (including your furniture on occasion?)

In conclusion, we are back to the most important thing – choosing your breeder.  You are responsible for teaching your puppy manners & the social graces but genetics play an important part.  If your puppy comes from temperamental stock, you will have a lifelong battle to stay on top, as you will be constantly masking the undesirable traits, which are in the bloodline.

A good breeder will have started the socialisation, basic training & house breaking process with your pup.  Don't under estimate the benefits of this.  The early days with your puppy will be much enhanced.

Please also look at  our Breed Information & Questions To Ask pages for further information on the breed & how to determine a good breeder & tell if you have a healthy puppy.

 
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