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A
difficult area to discuss is the cost of the puppy.
Good quality puppies from
reputable breeders will cost more. Generally
speaking, the old adage still applies of "you get what
you pay for". A breeder won't be offended at your
enquiry about the price of a puppy but please remember
that cost shouldn't be your first question!
Beware of
puppies offered for sale at less than the "going rate".
At the moment the average cost of a cocker puppy from a
recognised kennel (i.e. not from the free ads papers,
puppy farmers & "backyard" breeders) is £600.00 - £900.00
(there is some regional variation in prices.)
Whilst the price of a well-bred puppy may seem
excessive, you must remember that your dog will
hopefully live for 10 - 15 years, this equates to less
than £75.00 per year of the dogs life. You would not be
able, for example, to buy a car for £750.00 and expect
it to last for 10 - 15 years of hopefully trouble free
motoring!
Puppies from breeders who take the time to provide the
highest standard of care for their dogs and puppies, who
health screen the parents, vet check & micro-chip their
pups, provide vaccinations & those who spend time
socialising their puppies will charge between
the middle & top end of the "going rate".
Reputable
breeders do not breed for financial gain (i.e. make a
profit), however they have to cover their costs
(eventually!)
Health testing parents, providing the
highest possible level of care, the best food, vet
checks, micro chipping & socialising puppies costs more
than rearing puppies to minimum standards & this will be
reflected in the price.
Buying a "cheap" puppy might seem like a good idea at
the time; however, you should be asking yourself why
the pup costs less than the "going rate"? What
economies has a breeder made in order to sell their
puppies for less? Perhaps there has been no costly
health testing of parents? Perhaps the pups & Mum
haven't received quality food. Has the litter not been
vet checked, micro-chipped or vaccinated? The list is
endless, however if a puppy is sold at less than the
"going rate" you can be SURE economies have been made
somewhere by
the breeder! |
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How many litters a year does the breeder have? Most
"hobby" breeders will have between two & four litters per year. High
numbers could indicate a commercial breeder. |
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Does the breeder breed
only Cockers (or perhaps one or two other breeds)?
If the breeder has a selection of pups available from
different breeds then the chances are high that this is a
commercial breeder (puppy farmer) & you should be
wary of buying a puppy under these circumstances.
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Research what kind of health problems the breed has
(most if not all breed's have some hereditary health
problems), ask the
breeder for more information? Don't be fooled by a breeder who
tells you their breed has no health problems - most
breeds of dogs (including cross-breeds) have some
hereditary problems.
If a breeder doesn't
health screen (using ALL available tests), how
can they be sure there isn't a problem! |
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Have the parents been screened for breed particular
hereditary disease? For
Cocker Spaniels: -
Both parent's should
be KC/BVA Eye Tested by a veterinary ophthalmologist and
have "unaffected" results for CPRA, GPRA & Glaucoma.
Please note, this is a specific test, it is not a
routine eye check-up carried out by a breeders own vet!
At least one
(preferably both) parent(s) should be DNA tested
(or genetically Clear via parentage) for
prcd-PRA. The company responsible for PRA
testing is OptiGen.
The test is a DNA test which looks for the presence or
absence of the mutant gene responsible for the disease.
At least one
(preferably both) parent(s) should be DNA tested
(or genetically Clear via parentage) for
FN. There are two companies responsible for FN
testing : OptiGen &
Antagene. The test is a DNA test which looks
for the presence or absence of the mutant gene
responsible for the disease
Have the parent's of
your puppy been hip scored (hopefully with low scores!)
for signs of
hip
dysplasia?
Conscientious & caring breeders
will health screen their breeding stock!
Without testing the parent's of puppies how can breeders
ensure they produce healthy puppies? |
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Ask what date your puppy may leave his or her
Mother. Puppies should not normally leave their Mother & siblings
before the age of 8 weeks or thereabouts. |
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Are
the puppies reared in the house or a kennel? If they
are reared in the house, they should be confident &
comfortable with their surroundings. If they are kennel
reared & then brought into the house, unless well
socialised by the breeder, they may well be
nervous & timid about their surroundings at first.
The
house should be clean (give or take a few stray dog
hairs or paw prints!), homes with multiple dogs can
be a bit "doggy" particularly if the weather is wet but
should be basically clean even if they are a bit untidy!
If
you arrive to find a less than clean house but the dogs
are immaculate then you can assume that all the
breeders’ time is taken up with caring for their dogs.
However if the dogs and their kennel/living area are
scruffy too then it might be wise to presume that little
attention has been paid to either the dogs or their
living conditions & you should seriously consider how
committed the breeder is? |
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Have the puppies been
well socialised by
the breeder? Well socialised puppies (both by
breeders & new owners) are more likely to grow into
confident & friendly dogs. Poorly socialised dogs
are likely to develop behavioural problems such as
aggression and phobias. Goods socialisation is of
paramount importance when choosing a puppy. |
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If they are kennel dogs & you see the actual kennel set-up, is there an
odour? There will usually be a "doggy" smell but this shouldn't
offensive. Are the kennels clean? Is the bedding/bowls/ floors & walls
clean? There is nothing
wrong with buying a kennel reared puppy, hopefully the
breeder will have paid just as much attention to care and
socialisation as a breeder who rears their pups in their
home. It would be wise however to check that this is
the case and that the pups are confident and are happy
with people and household type noises etc. |
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Are the dog's coats shiny & the dogs healthy
looking? Check the coat for signs of scurf or skin disease & parasites
i.e. fleas or lice. Puppies with parasites can indicate a less than well
run kennel. Ask the breeder if & when the puppy has been wormed?
Generally speaking pups (& their mother) should be wormed
between 2 - 3 weeks of age and then fortnightly thereafter
until they are 12 weeks old. After this age the pup
should be wormed upon the advice of your vet (usually
every 1 - 3 months). |
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Does the puppy look plump & contented? |
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Does the puppy look healthy? Are the puppy's eyes,
ears & bottom clean & free from any discharge or soiling?
Check the puppies ears, healthy ears don't smell offensive (sometimes
there is a slight "earthy" smell but this is quite normal). |
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Ask
if the puppy will be Vet checked prior to leaving his
breeder? Good breeders will Vet check their puppies to
ensure they are physically healthy with no clinical
signs of illness or parasites etc. The Vet will also
check for such things as heart murmurs, hernia's, cleft
palates, deformities & the presence of testicles (in
males). As with all things controlled by nature it
can occasionally be the case that some pups are not 100%
perfect.
Given
full information about a condition (if any) both
the breeder & purchaser can decide whether they wish to
sell or buy the pup & whether the condition will have an
impact on the pups future health & wellbeing.
Minor
problems don't usually have any detrimental effect on
the pup or it's ability to be a loyal and loving
companion animal & you shouldn't automatically reject a
puppy who is otherwise healthy, well reared and from a
good breeder just because of, for example, a
level bite (rather than a scissor bite). |
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When buying a show puppy
&/or a puppy with the possibility of breeding from him/her
in the future it's imperative that you choose/or are
offered a puppy who is free from obvious show "faults". Check the
bite (teeth) of the puppy to ensure they are a scissor
bite (please keep in mind that mouths in particular can
change on young pups), with a male puppy, check to ensure both testicles are
fully descended into the scrotum.
In the case of pet
pups these issues are not quite as important. In an
ideal world every pup born would have no obvious show "faults"
however a healthy pup from a good breeder is more
important than a 100% perfect show specimen.
Honest breeders will advise you of any show "faults" a pup has
and explain them fully. Minor issues with teeth etc.
do crop up from time to time, however if the pup is
otherwise healthy this shouldn't overly influence your
decision not to purchase the pup. |
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Can you see the puppies mother? You should be able to
meet their mother, she should be friendly with you
although she may be a little concerned when you approach
her puppies (this is normal and quite understandable).
How the mother looks and behaves will give you some
indication as to how your new pup will develop.
Please bear in
mind that the mother might not be looking her best, it's hard work
rearing a litter & most bitches don't look their best at this time! |
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Most puppies are
registered with the UK Kennel Club. Ask if your
puppy is registered with The Kennel Club - there are
alternative
registries,
however reputable breeders ONLY register their puppies
with The Kennel Club. Dog Lovers
Registration is not the equivalent to Kennel Club
Registration!
Whilst KC registration is not a guarantee of quality or indeed proof of
your puppy's
pedigree; it is necessary if you plan to show, compete at some events
with your dog or breed from him/her. Ensure the registration
documents are
given to you at the time of collecting your puppy. Be very wary of a
breeder who tells you they will forward the documents at a later date.
Ask if the registration papers have been endorsed, if so ask the breeder
to explain this to you & ensure mention of any terms relating to the
restrictions are mentioned in your Contract. |
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Look at the pedigrees - you may not be able to
recognise any dogs, but you should at least be able to tell whether this
is a brother/sister or father/daughter or otherwise close breeding.
If it is a close breeding, ask the breeder to explain
the reason why. Not all close breeding's are
detrimental, however they should only be undertaken by
experienced breeders and not just because it was more
convenient to use a stud dog because he was convenient. |
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Will the puppy have a schedule for vaccinations &
routine worming? |
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Does the breeder give a pack of information to the
new puppy owner that includes a diet sheet, basic care & training
information? Good breeders will provide comprehensive information
with their puppies. |
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Will the breeder be available to give support
&
advice after you get the puppy home and for the duration of your dogs
life? Good breeders always have a good "after sales"
service! |
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Will the breeder supply free insurance for the puppy
during the first few weeks in it's new home? Good breeders
usually arrange this cover for six - twelve weeks free of charge. |
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Reputable breeders will normally (although not
always) be involved with activities with their dogs i.e. dog showing,
obedience, agility etc. etc. |
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Will the
breeder take the puppy/dog back for re-homing should this ever be
needed? |
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Is the breeder a member of the Cocker Club or other
Cocker Breed Clubs? |
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Is the breeder a member of any local breed/training
or obedience clubs? |
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